Customer Project
Build a Picnic Table
Browse Projects
-
Window Planter
-
Ombre Pot
-
Estimated Time
6-8 Hours
-
Challenge Level
Intermediate
-
Tools & Supplies:
-
Safety Goggles
-
Tape Measure
-
2 x 4”, 2 x 6” and 2 x 8” Pieces of Lumber
-
Circular Saw
-
Combination Square
-
3/8” Drill and Bits
-
Combination Countersink Drill Bit
-
2-1/2, 3 and 4” #8 Deck Screws
-
Pencil
-
C-Clamps
-
Bar Clamps
-
3/8 x 3” Carriage Bolts
-
Ratchet and Socket Wrench
-
1/4” Spacers
-
Framing Square
-
Screwdriver
-
Reciprocating Saw
-
Sandpaper: grit 220
-
- Wearing safety goggles, cut wood to the following dimensions using a tape measure and circular saw: 4 Table Slats 1 1/2 x 7 1/4 x 72"; 4 Bench Slats 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 68”; 4 Table Legs 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 40 1/2"; 1 Center Table Support 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 28 3/4"; 2 End Table Supports 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 28 3/4"; 2 Bench Supports 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 61"; 2 Braces 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 30 3/4"; 2 Bench Cleats 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 10".
- Using a combination square, find and cut a 60-degree angle at each end of the two end table support pieces and a 60-degree bevel on the end of the center table support.
- Drill holes in the table support with a combination countersink bit.
- Place the table supports on the slats—the two end pieces should be at the edge, 7” from the end, and the center piece should be flat and centered. Drill holes, and screw the two end pieces to the slats with 4” deck screws. Attach the center piece to the slats with 2 1/2” deck screws.
- Draw a 60-degree angle at each end of the legs using a pencil and combination square, then cut with a circular saw.
- Mark a point 1 1/2” from the outside edge of the bottom of each leg with a combination square, then mark a point 1 1/2” from the outside edge of the bottom of each leg. Cut the corner.
- Place the combination square against the end, and draw a line from that point to the outside edge. Cut off the corner.
- Clamp the legs to the outside faces of the end table support, then attach them with two 3” carriage bolts using a ratchet and socket wrench.
- Mark the position of the bench supports on the legs by laying one arm of a framing square on the tabletop.
- Miter-cut the end of the bench supports at 60-degree angles.
- Drill holes in the outside face of each leg, and clamp the bench supports to the inside of the legs, aligning them with the mark on each leg. Center them across the table's width.
- Drill four holes on the outside face of each leg and fasten the bench supports with 3” carriage bolts.
- Mark parallel 60-degree angles on each end of the 2x4 braces.
- Lay out a right-angled notch at one end of each brace to fit the center table support.
- Position each brace, and mark the part that sticks out beyond the lower edge of the bench supports, and trim it off.
- Drill pilot holes on each brace and then drive in the screws.
- Cut the bench slats to length and put them in pairs upside down on a flat work surface.
- Separate each pair of bench slats with 1/4” spacers, and clamp each set together.
- Drill holes on the bench cleats after positioning them at the center of the bench slats.
- Place the bench cleats at the center of the bench slats. Drill holes with a combination countersink bit and attach with the 2 1/2” deck screws.
- Drill holes on the bench supports with a combination countersink bit for 4” inch deck screws, then screw the bench supports to the benches.
- Build a jig to draw a curved edge on each end of the tabletop: Begin by boring a hole for a pencil into a 6’x1x2”. Then clamp a wood strip across the tabletop 10” from one end. Nail the 1x2” to the strip so it pivots, then scribe an arc. Repeat to mark the other end.
- Cut the curved edges of the tabletop with a reciprocating saw.
- Sand all rough edges of the table, and remove dust.
- Apply a couple coats of spray paint, and allow it to dry.